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IDL 20001 X-Axis Dead :-(
04-12-2017, 02:29 AM
Post: #1
IDL 20001 X-Axis Dead :-(
I have the original yoke from the pre-orders. It will no longer wake up. Upon using the arduino terminal I have discovered in the calibration that the X-Axis is reporting just 0. I am using the 108 R2 firmware. I opened it up, all connections appear to be good.

Does anyone know how the X-Axis position is determined? Is it based on the position of the stepper or servo motor? It looks like the Y-Axis is determined by a photo sensor but not sure if maybe a dead motor is the cause of no X readings or if the motor has nothing to do with reporting X positions at all... I'm hoping this could just be a simple matter of replacing that motor.

Thanks,
John
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04-12-2017, 08:49 AM
Post: #2
RE: IDL 20001 X-Axis Dead :-(
I had the same calibration failure issue recently with my IDL-20001 and was able to fix it myself in about 30 minutes. It was a broken solder connection on one of the wires from the roll motor which are spliced together within the black braided protective cover. A few inches down from the motor, I cut the zip ties and rolled the black sheath back to expose the wires. There I found a wire (white, in my case) that had pulled apart from its solder connection under the heat-shrink wrap. You'll need to have a soldering iron and get some zip-ties and heat shrink tubing, or write to support@irisdynamics.com and ask for a parts kit and repair instructions. After reconnecting the wires, rolling the braided sheath back and securing it with zip ties, everything worked normally after a calibration. Hope this helps.
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04-12-2017, 11:14 AM
Post: #3
RE: IDL 20001 X-Axis Dead :-(
(04-12-2017 08:49 AM)jmboughter Wrote:  I had the same calibration failure issue recently with my IDL-20001 and was able to fix it myself in about 30 minutes. It was a broken solder connection on one of the wires from the roll motor which are spliced together within the black braided protective cover. A few inches down from the motor, I cut the zip ties and rolled the black sheath back to expose the wires. There I found a wire (white, in my case) that had pulled apart from its solder connection under the heat-shrink wrap. You'll need to have a soldering iron and get some zip-ties and heat shrink tubing, or write to support@irisdynamics.com and ask for a parts kit and repair instructions. After reconnecting the wires, rolling the braided sheath back and securing it with zip ties, everything worked normally after a calibration. Hope this helps.

You win the prize! I didn't realize there were connections underneath the braid. A green wire came undone and once re-attached, it works!

I wonder if they fixed this in future iterations. It seems odd to have connections like that in a segment of wire that frequently gets moved and bent as it slides on the y axis. I would think connections would be better in a stationary location and then have just continuous wire on the moving segments.

Thanks for your help!
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04-12-2017, 12:33 PM
Post: #4
RE: IDL 20001 X-Axis Dead :-(
Well now I have another bizarre problem. After assembling it, any forces that I apply to the yoke (but only while it's awake) cause it to disconnect from the PC and reconnect immediately. But, after the case is taken off, it works fine (even when awake and forces being applied). Near the rear there is a piece of braided aluminum on the power supply that grounds it to the case. It seems as if when that braided aluminum contacts the case, it disconnects any time any extra power is applied, like during a force being applied. I am thinking something must not be properly grounded now after re-assembly but I can't seem to locate anything wrong. It works just fine when sleeping. It sends x and y data to the PC without disconnecting. Only when awake and only when force is applied. If it sits there idle or is having buttons pushed, it works just fine. Even while using the electronic trim it works fine. Only when actually pushing it does it disconnect.

Any ideas?

I suppose I could just remove the grounding connection between the case and PSU. I'm certainly no expert on electricity but that seems to be a bad idea and that doesn't actually fix the problem, only a band aid.
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